![]() ![]() I don't use the trailer that much so I can always remove the batteries to charge if needed. Now you got me thinking! I may even use one of the new house batteries in Parallel with the breakaway to have more capacity (both are 5 A/h batteries). I will monitor the battery voltage with an LED meter. The extra batteries I bought will stay charged in the shop and I can easily replace the battery if needed. I can leave the wiring "as is" and not add the isolator. I will put a junction box where the battery is now when I move the battery to the inside. I plan on adding conduit to the exposed wiring past the pigtail of the harness to underneath the trailer. Self-tap the screws and the bracket of the isolator. Install the TRUE smart battery isolator on the fender well using a drilling machine. Secure this new battery using a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Connect the long and shorter battery cables to the positive end of the other battery. Place the second battery on the battery tray located in line with the driver’s side of the car. And it gives me a good excuse to go ahead and add LED lights to the inside. To attach the starting battery with the breaker, use a wire. I had someone break into my trailer this past week and I am now trying to fortify it with an independent alarm system. ![]() I hadn't thought about that! Even though the house battery is the same as the breakaway battery, I may move it to the inside of the trailer instead of on the tongue where it is now. This is why we choose to install battery combiners for battery banks that are generally similar in size and also won’t be uneven or unbalanced to avoid nuisance tripping of the fuses protecting the battery combiners. ![]()
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